Droplets of Addis Ababa /Addis Ababa trupineliai

1. Visa.

We land from Istanbul on Monday, just around midnight, so it’s nearly Tuesday. We had 7th row seats so we’re pretty much the first to get off the plane and come to the visa-on-arrival windows. Well, guess what, we overlooked that Lithuanian passport is good for e-visa but not for one at the airport. We are nicely asked to fill out the electronic application using a great Wi-Fi at the airport. Then we are taken to their office to wait for approval. The problem is, it’s midnight and consular officers are asleep. After several call attempts to their main office, we’re being told it may take until 12 am. 12 am?! It’s 24 hours of chilling in their office! Ahh, it’s 12 am local time… Which means 6 am western time. Not too bad, it’s just under 6 hours.

A little detour. Ethiopia shares the same time zone as Istanbul, Kenya, Tanzania or Lithuania but their local time is 6 hours back. Not sure where this comes from but make sure to set a dual clock – one  for western GMT +3 and another one for Brazil (GMT – 3)  and when someone tells you to meet at 2 pm, make sure to ask if you’re meeting at 2 pm local or western :)))

Back to visa. We sit comfortably in the soft armchairs at the airport office poking our phones, enjoying the Wi-Fi. An hour later and officer shows up and asks to check if I got a confirmation email for my visa application. And sure I did! That wonderful wi-fi access totally distracted us we didn’t notice that important email to come in! So… Just over an hour later after our flight landed, we’re free to go and explore Addis Ababa.

1. Viza.

Nusileidome is Stambulo pirmadieni apie vidurnakti, jau beveik antradieni. Sedejome septintoje eileje, tad buvom vieni pirmuju islipusiu, atsidureme pirmose gretose prie vizu langeliu. Deja neapsiziurejome, kad lietuviskas pasas tinka tik elektroninei vizai, prie langelio ju neisduoda. Bet oro uosto darbuotoja maloniai pasiule sest ant suoliuko ir uzpildyti vizos aplikacija naudojantis oro uosto wifi.

Kai uzpildem vizos prasyma, mus nusivede i savo kabineta laukti. Beda ta, kad atvykome vidurnakti ir konsulinio skyriaus darbuotojai miega. Po keliu nesekmingu skambučius pagrindiniam biurui, mums buvo pasakyta kad teks laukti patvirtinimo iki 12 am. 12 am?! Tai reiskia 24 valandas nuo dabar! Ech, pasirodo tai 12 am vietiniu laiku, o tai reiskia 6 am vakarietisku. Na, 6 valandos laukimo ne taip jau blogai…

Trumpas nukrypimas. Etiopija dalinasi ta pacia laiko juosta su Satmbulu, Kenija  Tanzanija ar Lietuva, bet del mums nezinomos priezasties, vietinis laikas skiriasi 6 valandom. Vadinasi, reikia nusistatyti dviguba laikrodi – viena vakarietiska GMT +3, ir kita Brazilijos laika (GMT – 3), ir butinai pasitikslinti, ar susitarus susitikti 2 pm turima omeny vietini ar vakarietiska laika :))) 

Atgal prie vizos. Sedime patogiai minkstuose kresluose oro uosto kabinete, maigome telefonus besidziaugdami geru interneto rysiu. Po valandos pasirodo pareigunas ir pasiulo patikrinti elektronini pasta, gal atejo vizos patvirtinimas. Ir zinoma atejo! Nuostabusis wifi visiskai nukreipe demesi nuo svarbiojo laisko laukimo! Taigi… Praejus vos daugiau nei valandai, buvom paleisti i laisve tyrineti Addis Ababa.

2. Guest house.

After some bargaining and negotiations with about 8 cab drivers, we get one that will take us to our guest house. Our bike boxes end up on the cab roof nicely tightened with ropes and we begin our journey. The streets are empty, most of them dark, stray dogs ruling the streets and some goats curled up by the side of the road. It’s different but joyful overall.

Until we reach some dingy street with huts looking like slums and suddenly the paved road ends. But Google map still shows we’re on the right track!

A couple minutes later we see a 3 story building with a neon sign reading ”guest house”. We’re so relieved to see it. The room is very basic, cleanish. Just a bed and a small table. But it has a private bathroom with hot shower (on most days).

It’s day 5, we’re still at the same guest house, and the dingy street leading to the guest house is not that scary anymore.

2. Sveciu namai.

Pasiderejus su kokiais astuoniais taksistais gavome vairuotoja. Musu dviraciu dezes atsidure ant taksi stogo, buvo saugiai priristos virvemis ir isriedejome link sveciu namu. Gatves tuscios, dauguma tamsios, karaliauja gatviniai sunys, sian bei ten susikusios guli ozkos. Kitoniska aplinka, bet is principo kelianti dziaugesi.

Na, bent kol privaziuojam nuosalia gatvele pritupdyta lusneliu, o stai ir baigiasi gristas kelias… Bet Google zemelapis vis dar rodo kad mes teisingam kely!

Uz keliu minuciu pamatome triauksti pastata ant kurio kabo neoninis zenklas ”sveciu namai”. Jauciame dideli palengvejima… Kambarys be galo paprastas, apysvaris. Lova ir stalelis. Bet yra atskiras tualetas ir karstas dusas (dazniausiai).

Siandien jau penkta diena, o mes vis tam paciam kambary, ir nyki gatvele vedanti i sveciu namus nebeatrodo tokia baugi.

3. Abdoul.

Couchsurfing is a great way to get to know the ways of the locals. We connected with several people in Addis too. In fact, the guest house was recommended by Abdoul, who has been living here for the last year or so. He comes from Cameroon and has been working in Addis for nearly 2 years now. He’s our kindhearted prophet of the city. It was a breeze to explore Istanbul with our dear friend Paul and new friends form couchsurfing Elif and Barish. In Addis we’re a lot more on our own and having Abdoul just across the hallway soothes our hearts somehow.

3. Abdulas

Couchsurfing yra puikus budas pazinti vietine kultura. Radome kelis zmones ir Addis. Sveciu namai, kuriuose apsistojome, taip pat buvo rekomenduoti taip raso draugo Abdulo, kuris cia gyvena jau daugiau nei metus. Jis yra atvykes is Kameruno, Addis gyvena ir dirba jau beveik dvejus metus. Abdulas – musu gerasirdis miesto pranasas. Buvo nepalyginamai lengviau narsyti Stambula su mielu draugu Polu, ir naujais draugai is Couchsurfing Elif ir Barish. Addis turim buti gerokai labiau savarankiski, bet Abdulas kitame koridoriaus gale kazkaip ramina musu sirdis.

4. Meskel celebration.

On day 2 of our stay we met with another friend from Couchsurfing, a local gentleman named Amanual, and we all (Abdoul, Aman and us) went to see the biggest Demera of the city. Meskel celebration is a 2 day holiday where the first day the city (and the whole country) makes bonfires on the streets to commemorate the Emperess Helena finding the true cross of Jesus’ crucifixion. According to legend, half of the cross was gifted to Ethiopia for protection of the empire. Here’s more on Meskel.

There’s a location in the city called Meskel Square. That’s where the biggest bonfire (called demera) is set, and that’s where we went. We got there around 5 pm (Western) and it was already crowded with tens of thousands of people. Groups dressed in traditional white gauze dress were part of the festive procession, there were speaches from city and church leaders. And then everyone shared a fire to light up their candles (a long cotton string bundle dipped in wax) waiting for the big fire to light up. From where we stood it looked like a big Christmas tree with a yellow daisies on top shining as a Christmas star. The Christmas tree bursted into flames and the fireworks began. Everyone was excited, taking photos and videos with their smartphones!

Then the fireworks and fire were over and the huge crowed started carying us toward the exit. A tight bottleneck then a steep stair, and we’re finally free! But wait, we’re one phone down… And only a split second that Tomas took his hand off the pant pocket to stabilize himself after some good push… Well, this could’ve happened at some mass event in America too, it’s only sad that we have to dedicate more time again for the logistics.

4. Meskelio svente.

Antraja keliones diena susitikome su kitu draugu is Couchsurfing, vietiniu jaunuoliu vardu Emanuelis, ir visi kartu, Abdulas, Emanuelis ir mes, ejom ziuret I didziausio miesto Demera (svento kauzo). Meskelio svente trunka dvi dienas. Pirma diena vakare yra kuriami lauzai visame mieste (ir salyje), skirti pamineti Impreatorienes Elenos Jezaus Kryziaus radimui. Pasak legendos, Etiopija gavo puse to kryziaus dovanų uz imperious apsauga. Issamiausia sventes aprasyma radau cia, bet jei galit, skaitykit angliškai.

Mieste yra vieta vadinama Meskelio aikste. Cia kuriamas didziausias miesto lauzas (vadinamas Demera), ten mes ir nupedinom. Astidurem ten apie penkta valanda vakaro (vakarietisku laiku) ir radome desimtis tukstanciu zmoniu jau besiburianciu ziuret ceremonijos. Tradiciniais baltais, tartum is marles rubais, apsiredziusios mases zmoniu zygiavo procesijoje, skambejo miesto ir baznycios lyderiu kalbos. Joms pasibaigus, ceremonijos stebetojai iziebe ranku darbo zvakeles (pagamnitas is susuktu mevilnes siulu mirkytu vaske) ir kantriai lauke didziojo lauzo iziebimo. Mes stovejome toli nuo aikste centro, tad didysis lauzas atrode lyg Kaledine eglute su geltona ramuneliu virsune, tarsi Kaledu zvaigzde. Staiga Kaledu eglute isiliepsnojo ir eme pokseti fejerverkai. Visi dziugavo, sukavo, ir fotografavo bei filmavo regini ismaniaisias telefonais.

Fejerverkai ir lauzai baigesi, ir minia eme nesti mus link isejimo. Didele kamsatis, status laiptelis, ir mes laisvi! Ajajai, truksta vieno telefono… Vos kelioms akimirkoms atitrauke Tomas ranka nuo kisenes su telefonu, kad atgautu balansa po gero stumtelejimo… Ka padarysi, taip galejo nutikti ir kokiam masiniam renginy Amerikoj, tik gaila skirt dar dugiau laiko logistikai.

5. Logistics.

Ever since we landed, everything has been slow in Addis. It’s as if we’re drunk a bit all the time. We’ve been blaming altitude and smog, but could be cultural shock either… Starting day one, we ventured out to get a local Sim card and then go see the city. All we managed to do was go to the city center and get the Sim card at the sole network provider, which we would not have found without a help of a friendly police officer. At the location, we were patted down and our bag was thoroughly checked. Oops, y’all have a knife! OK, leave your bike here and put the knife in the bag on your bike, explained the silent guard. Hey, another friendly officer! After getting a card we walk out to the bustling street again and ride to a cafe nearby that should have Wi-Fi as per our guide book. And sure it does. Not as good as the airport’s, but enough to communicate with Abdoul over WhatsApp.

The hills are steep, the black smoke from the cars is breathtaking (not in a good way). We are huffing and puffing to conquer the short distances. Add homeless children at the intersections running across the street to touch the bike and you, add 50% of locals looking at you and another 30% shouting something in Amharic, which you don’t understand. All you know, all the shouts and admiration is friendly and well-meaning, but it’s difficult to be the center of attention everywhere you go. Seems like it’s the bike’s fault. We were way less interesting when we were walking to the Meskel Square. So we go back to our guest house before it gets dark, getting some fresh fruit in the shacks on the way.

The Sim card takes a day to activate (although we were told it may take up to 7 days), this is the day the phone is no more though. So the day after we not only need to get yet another Sim card, but also get a new phone and file a police report so we can potentially get compensated for the new phone purchase through our travel insurance. The problem is, it’s the day of Meskel, so only the market is open. Luckily we find the used phone we want for about the same price we’d pay in the US. With that taken care of, we go to the nearest police station. There we are explained to go to the one that covers the Meskel Square. So we navigate there. Again, the officers are friendly, but barely speak any English, luckily two local boys are there to report the same theft as we had and help to translate. At the end we are all told to come back tomorrow as it’s their day off. Sure, we’ll try that! Also, will go to Ethio Telecom again.

5. Logistika.

Nuo pat nusileidimo Addis viskas labai suletejo. Tarsi butume apgirte visa laika. Kaltiname auksti (2.3 km) ir smalkes, bet gali buti ir kulturinis sokas… Pirma diena issiruosem ieskoti vietines Sim korteles ir patyrineti miesto idomybiu, taciau sugebejome tik isigyti sim kortele is monopolinio rysio tiekejo, kuriuo parduotuves nekaip nbutume rade be draugisko vietini policininko palydos. Pateke i vieta buvom apciupineti sargybos, ir patikrinta tase. Oi, turite peili? Na, nieko tokio, padekime ji i dviracio tase ir palikite dviratį mums, nebyliai paaiskino sargybinis. Stai dar vienas draugiskas pareigunas! Gave kortele iseiname atgal i knibzdancia gatve ir vaziuojame i kavine, pasak kelioniu gido turincia wifi. Internetas yra, nors ir ne toks puikus kaip oro uoste, bet uztenka palaikyti rysi su Abdulu per WhatsApp.

Kalniukai status, juodi dumai is masinu ismetamuju duju vamzdziu kvapa gniauziantys. Sunkiai puskuodami iveikiam mazus atstumus. Pridek dar benamius vaikus sankryzose, lekiancius apciupineti dviracio ir taves, dar pridek 50% vietiniu besisukiojanciu taves paziureti, ir dar 30% kazka saukianciu amharu kalba, kurios tu nesupranti. Vienintelis dalykas kuri suprantu, tai kad tie suksniai draugiski ir geranoriski, bet vis tiek ne paprasta buti demesio centre visur kur beeini. Panasu kad del to kalciausias dviratis, nes kai ejom i Meskelio svente pesciomis, niekas mumis nesidomejo… Tad griztame i sveciu namus dar pries sutemstant, pakeliui nusiperkame svieziu vaisiu vienoje is pakeles lusneliu.

Sim korteles aktyvacija uztrunka viena diena (nors buvo sakyta kad gali trukti iki 7 dienu), taciau tai diena kuria telefini nebeliko. Tad sekancia diena ne tik turesim isigyti nauja kortele, bet ir nauja telefona, bei padaryti pareiskima polocijai, kad galetume gauti kompensacija uz naujo telefono pirkima is keliones draudimo. Tik problema ta, kad siandien Meskelio diena, tad dirba tik turgus. Bent pasiseke rasti norima deveta telefona uz panasia suma kuria butume isleide Amerikoj. Isprende telefono problema patraukeme lonk artimiausios policijos nuovados. Ten paasikina, kad reikia vaziuoti i nuovada salia Meskelio aikstes. Tad naviguojame ten. Velgi sutinka me draugiskus pareigunus, bet vos kalba angliskai. Pasiseke, kad nuovados sutikom du vietinius jaunuolius su tokiu paciu skundu kaip musu, kurie padejo isversti, ko mes norim, taciau visiems buvo pasakyta grizti rytoj, mat siandien ne darbo diena. Butinai grisim! Taip pat dar karta aplankysime Ethio Telecom.

6. African Jazz Village.

Ethio Jazz is fantastic. So we find the local spot to visit after taking care of the logistics. It’s a beautiful resort like hotel compound with lush trees and flowers, nice Ethiopian restaurant and the jazz club underneath it. We are the first to arrive and are offered a seat in the center. After a while people start coming in. If in the last 3 days we’ve only seen 2 farangis (white people) this place is full of us. Mostly well aged silver haired ladies and gentlemen. The music begins – a local Ethio Jazz band plays a few pieces, then they invite a guest band from Madagascar to the stage. The light and airy folk jazz music floats in the space. After a few pieces both bands join on the stage to jam and we are totally blown away by the fascinating sounds of the African Jazz jam. Check out the sound recording Tomas made.

After the refreshing musical outing we get back on the bike and take the big roads to get back to the guest house. Abdoul said it should be safe if we take the big lit streets. We get home just fine. Both are seriously bloated, but we had fir fir (injira pieces in sauce wrapped in injira, so a lot of injira..) earlier, and then some honey waffles which we topped by a beer at the jazz club, so it’s sort of expected.

6. Afrikietisko dziazo kaimelis

Ethio dziazas tikrai puikus. Tad susitvarke logistinius reikalus susiradom vietini klubeli. Afrikietisko dziazo kaimelis pasislepes graziame viesbuciu komplekse apsuptame vesliais medziais ir gelemis  su etiopisku restoranu ir dziazo klubu po juo. Mes esam pirmi sveciai, tad gauname staliuka paciame centre. Po truputi ima rinkitis kiti zmones. Jei per pastarasias tris dienas mateme du “farangi” (baltaodis  uzsienietis) tai sitas klubas pilnas musu. Dauguma graziai paamzejusiu sidabraplaukiu damu ir ponu. Prasideda muzika – vietine Etio dziazo grupe sugroja kelis gabalus ir pakviecia I scena svecius is Madagaskaro. Skaidri flokdziazo muzika uzpildo erdve. Po keliu kuriniu abi grupes susitinka scenoje dziamui, ir mes sedime apzaveti stulbinanciu afrikietisko dziazo garsu. Cia trumpas garso irasas.

Po tokios gaivinancios muzikines iskylos sesame ant dviracio ir keliaujame namo didelemis gatvemis. Abdulas sake kad turetu buti saugu vidurnakti didelese ir apsviestose gatvese. Jis teisus, laimingai griztame namo.

Abiems juokingai pucia pilvus, bet pries tai valgeme fir fir (indziros gabaliukai padaze ivynioti i indzira – labai daug indziros…), tada uzkirtom vafliuku su medum ir dar viska uzpylem alum dziazo klube, tai kaip ir galima buvo tiketis…

7. Day 4.

I am so cold all night! We went to bed around 1:30 am, and I slept until 11 am, Tomas tried to wake me up but I could barely manage to keep my eyes open. We both feel exhausted and achy, Tomas says he had trouble sleeping because the bed is too soft, and I was cold for the most of the night… We finally dress and leave, it’s sooo hard to pedal that bike, please stop that black smoke, all I want is a breeze of fresh air…

We manage to get to Ethio Telecom, then to the police station. There we have no English speaking boys anymore, so they ask to come back with translator, and explain that they will send the report to the embassy, and then it’s up to them to issue a copy or not. So we droop it. Too much trouble to file the insurance claim. Hopefully it’ll be easier when we really need to use it!

After the police station we go to the restaurant that Abdoul showed us earlier to eat. Tomas fills up on some fish goulash, and I only manage to down some tea and plain bread. The diarrhea already begun. We both feel lethargic but manage to get back to our room. We sleep for the rest of the day and night and half of the next day. Drinking rehydration salts, baring the body aches and waiting for a better tomorrow.

I feel better now, it’s afternoon. Tomas is still knocked out, sleeping. Wish him sweet dreams and feel better.

7. Ketvirta diena.

Man taip salta visa nakti! Vakar atsigulem apie puse dvieju nakties, as miegojau iki 11 ryto, Tomas bande zadint bet vos galejau praplest akis. Abu jauciames isseke skauda kuna, Tomas sako negalejo miegoti nes lova per minksta, o as vis salau… Galiausiai apsirengiam ir iseinam is kambario. Taip sunku minti dvirati, prasau sustabdykit tuos juodus masinu dumus, duokit bent gurksneli gaivaus oro…

Siaip ne taip nusigaunam iki Ethio telecom, is ten – I policijos nuovada. Siandien angliskai kalbanciu berniuku nera, tad pareigunas praso grizti su verteju ir prideda, kad raportas bus siunciamas i ambasada, o tada jie spres ar duoti mums kopija ar ne. Tad nuleidziam rankas. Per daug klapato del draudimo. Tikekimes, kad bus paprasiau kai is tikruju reikes draudimo pagalbos!

Is policijos nuovados judame link namu I Abdulo parodyta restorana. Tomas prikerta zuvies guliaso, as siaip taip sudoroju paprasta bandele su arbata. Diareja jau prasidejo… Abu jauciames letargiski bet sugebam grizti I savo kambari. Miegam visa likusia diena, nakti ir puse sekancios dienos. Geriame hidratuojancias druskas, kenciam lauzomus kaulus ir laukiam geresnio rytojaus.

As jau geriau jauciuosi dabar rasydama. Tomas vis dar miega nugaletas keliautoju ligos. Linkiu jam saldziu sapnu ir greiciau pasveikti.

8. Other bits and pieces.

Sidewalks. It’s been challenging to befriend Addis Ababa. I am mostly puzzled by sidewalks that have once been there and now the tiles and cement are all dug out and piled up on the corners as if purposefully creating the sense of poverty.

Scaffold. Yes, Ethiopia is one of the poorest countries in Africa, it’s quite obvious. Locals say the economy has been growing fast lately, there’s lots of cunstruction going on, only a few, very few, buildings have metal scaffolding, the rest is wooden, even on high risers, making them look lopsided.

Children. I am scared and saddened by the homeless kids on the street. They give me a similar sense of panic as any large group of kids anywhere else, but the fact that they live on the streets, some are clearly sick or injured just breaks my heart. If I gave them a Birr, it won’t change a thing. But what else can I do? The locals are nice to them, they give them some money or at least pat them on the head. All I manage to do is look away. Hopefully, with time I’ll learn to be nice and accept them for who they are – children in unforgivable circumstances that they didn’t choose themselves.

Smells. Since the moment of arrival there has not been a moment we could feel fresh air. There’s always a smell of something. Sometimes of something nice, sometimes yucky, but for the most part, it’s a smell of some sort of smoke – either from the kitchens, or form the cars, or from generators.

Shower. It was hot for the first 2 days, then it turned cold. Then we noticed the pattern that when wifi disappears, the generator in the neighboring room turns on and the wifi comes back on. Apparently, the electricity is not super stable here and we happen to take a shower when it’s out.

Travelers diarrhea. Abdoul said he had that several times too during his stay, so at least we’re not alone 🙂 Our traveler friends with such experience also advised to hydrate well, rest and wait. As much as Tomas was hoping his 3 years around compost would prevent this from happening, the American bacteria failed us. We are hopeful to get cholera vaccine in Addis before we set out for Harar. The clinic we were able to get in touch with said it should come in sometime next week.

8. Kitos nuotrupos.

Saligatviai. Kol kas sunku prisijaukinti Addis Ababa. Labiausiai man kelia nuostaba kazkada egzistave sigatviai, dabar isardyti ir iskasti, plyteles ir cementas suversti ant gatviu kampu, tarsi tycia kuriant neturto ispudi.

Pastoliai. Tiesa, Etiopija yra viena is skurdziausiu Afrikos valstybiu, tai ganetinai akivaizdu. Pasak vietiniu, pastaruoju metu ekonomika sparciai auga, vyksta daug statybu. Daugybe pastatu apsupti pastoliais ir tik keli, tikrai keli, is ju metaliniai. Visi like mediniai, net aplink dangoraizius, kurie nuo tu pastoliu atrodo kreivi.

Vaikai. Tuo paciu metu ir liudna ir bijau gatves vaiku. Jie man kelia panasia panika kaip vaiku buriai bet kur kitur, bet faktas, kad jie gyvena gatvej, kai kurie aiskiai sergantys ar suzeisti kelia sirdgela. Jei duociau jiems birr, tai nieko nepakeistu. Bet ka dar galeciau padaryti? Vietiniai jiems malonus, ar duoda pinigeli, ar bent galva paglosto. O as tesugebu ziureti salin. Tikiuosi, kad su laiku ismoksiu juos matyti tokius kokie yra – vargo vaikai ne savu pasirinkimu atsidure apgailetinoj padety.

Kvapai. Nuo pat atvykimo nera buve akimirkos kad butume ikvepe gaivaus oro. Cia visada kazkuo kvepia. Kartais skaniai, kartais nosi riecia, bet dazniausiai kvepia dumais – ar is virtuviu, ar is masinu, ar generatoriu…

Dusas. Pirmas dvi dienas tekejo siltas vanduo, po to tik saltas. Tada pastebejom, kad kai tik dingsta Wi-Fi, prie gretimo kambario isijungia generatorius ir Wi-Fi vel atsiranda. Pasirodo, kad elektros tiekimas cia neitin stabilus ir mes vis pataikom nueiti i dusa kai dingus elektra.

Keliautoju diareja. Abdulas sake ir ji bent kelis kartus buvo istikus si liga tai bent siokia tokia paguoda, kad ne mums vieniems taip 🙂 Musu keliautojai draugai, anksciau kovoje su ta pacia problema, irgi pataria gerti daug skysciu, ilsetis ir laukti kol praeis. Tomas labai tikejosi kad trys metai darbo su kompostu pades isvengti tokiu negalavimu, deja amerikietiskos bacilos mus nuvyle. Tikimes iki isvykstant is Addis gauti skiepus nuo choleros. Vietine klinika su kuria pavyko susisiekti sake, kad turetu atvezti kazkada kita savaite.

Can’t promise any more long translated posts unless I’m locked to the bed again 🙂 

Negaliu prizadeti daugiau tokiu ilgu straipsniuku su vertimu, nebent buciau vel prirakinta prie lovos 🙂